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Your business needs a safe environment for employees and customers. With more than 18 years of experience and 25,000 systems installed, Radon Be Gone delivers custom-designed commercial radon mitigation solutions that reduce radon levels within 24 hours. Our nationally certified installers design systems tailored to your property's unique needs, backed by a lifetime transferable warranty. Reach out to us for a free quote and protect your workplace today.

• Long-term radon exposure increases lung cancer risk
• Multi-family buildings require specialized measurement approaches
• Real estate transactions often demand radon testing
• OSHA and safety regulations emphasize workplace air quality
• Liability protection for property owners and managers

• Guaranteed radon reduction results or your money back
• Lifetime transferable warranty on complete systems
• Five-year manufacturer warranty on all fans
• RRNC (Radon-Resistant New Construction) certified
• Multi-family measurement and mitigation certified
• Referral and return customer discounts available
• Locally owned and operated since 2008
• URC Partners for quality assurance

Step 1A: Check your u-tube

The U-tube manometer measures fan operation and has a small tube that runs off of the top (either side) and into the pipe itself.  This is how it takes its readings. If the tube falls out for any reason the manometer will read as if the fan were not running. Reinsert or replace tubing into the hole in the PVC pipe or U-tube  if missing.

Step 2B: Check your breaker

The circuit breaker that the radon fan is running should be properly labeled. If the fan is not working, check the breaker to see if the breaker has tripped. Reset the breaker.  At times, you may need to flip the breaker off and back on if not tripped.  Also, a GFCI outlet may have tripped and needs to be reset.

Step 3B:  Check other power source location

If the fan is located in the attic, it’s powered by an outlet within 6ft of the fan. Make sure that it did not accidentally get unplugged. If the fan is located outside, there is an electrical box with an on/off switch on it located near the fan or plugged into an outlet. Sometimes these switches can be accidentally flipped off or unplugged.  Make sure that your switch is in the “on” position or plugged in.

Troubleshooting 2: I need to get into my sump pump?

By all means open your sump pit to make repairs to the pump. Most sump covers are only caulked in place around the outside and are split for easy removal. Re-caulk sump cover after repairs have been made with silicone caulk.

Troubleshooting 3: The plastic sheeting (Vapor barrier) In my crawl space balloons up?

It is common in the winter for the plastic in the crawl to get air pockets, it is not a bubble of radon. Placing weight on the plastic will help prevent this.

Troubleshooting 4: There is a gurgling sound coming from my radon system pipe?

Pipe slope is off or pipe in smaller sizes tend to gurgle at the elbows (Contact our office for repair).

Repair: Adjust pitch of the pipe, increase the size of the pipe, or add another suction point to allow for drainage.

Troubleshooting 5: My radon levels won’t go below 4PCI/L with an active system?

Contact our office, we need to re-evaluate your system.

Address radon concerns in your commercial property today. Serving all of Utah and surrounding areas, our certified team is ready to assess your needs and install a system that delivers fast, reliable results. We'll provide a free quote and answer all your questions about the mitigation process. Contact us today to schedule your commercial radon evaluation and start breathing easier tomorrow.